Marji Piech’s 1630 Notes and Fantasy Stitches -
Notes, Ideas, and Tips

Note: This information was originally collected and distributed by Marji Piech from April to October in 1996. It has been re-organized and formatted by Ashley Engelund. The content remains the same. All information is from Marji Piech, except where she has explictly noted other contributors.
 

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Notes, Ideas, and Tips - table of contents

 

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Notes, Ideas, and Tips

 

Use the Pattern Extension Feature

Take advantage of the Pattern Extension feature!!!! It does so much. Try it on the different leaf stitches. For that matter, try it on everything-it can really take a stitch from blah to extraordinary.It can turn a single pattern of something like D 2/8 into a major decorative feature. Don't underestimate it's power!!!

 

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use Pretty Thread When Testing

When testing stitches use pretty thread! A leaf simply doesn't look like a leaf when stitched out in chartreuse. If you're looking for a stitch to represent a particular item work in the color you will be using-the possibilities will surprise you. Black and white thread can make it a little hard on the imagination and you may overlook what might be a stunning stitch/combination for your purpose.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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The 1630 has every stitch possible

I was shocked when I heard myself recently saying to my mother, "but my machine doesn't have that stitch." What was I thinking??? Luckily I soon came to my senses and went to the stitch designer to design it myself. The "stitch" in question was small, irregular, filled-in triangles that, when stitched together, formed a tree. I went to the stitch designer, set the design width down to M1 and then used the continuous line tool to draw triangles and fill them in densely with lines. Presto!

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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18mm is max width for a dense fill

I did find that you can't produce designs much larger than 18mm wide that are still filled in densely. Additionally, the fill won't be the traditional satin stitch. However, you can get a great effect that will, when combined with built in stitches and altered version of built in stitches, allow you to duplicate much of the embroidery in RTW without an embroidery machine. (More on this in future installments.)

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use Stitch Designer for Alphabets up to 45mm

Another idea I recently had stemmed from bemoaning the fact that the built in alphabets only go up to 9mm wide. It would be very easy to reproduce the simple block and line alphabets (and just a little more difficult for the freehand) in the stitch designer, allowing you to stitch them up to 45mm wide. Kind of a stunning thought. (More on this in future installments too.)

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Buy an Extra Bobbin Case

I bought an extra bobbin case for my machine and set the tension so that it will produce perfect stitching with 40wt rayon thread in top and bobbin. I also use it whenever I want the top thread to pull through to the backside a bit or when I'm using a bobbin fill thread. It prevents having to drastically alter the upper tension to get desirable results. I think it's well worth the $30 in the time it saves in making repetitive tension samples.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use the Speed Settings

When doing decorative stitching or directional stitching, including motifs, use the speed settings. This will really improve stitch formation as you will better be able to judge where the fabric is going next and thus won't be working against it. As I was told when I road tested my machine-learning to guide the fabric without guiding it is one the keys to making the 1630 directional stitching work. (I do best when I watch a line on the fabric in relation to a line on the machine bed instead of watching the needle.)

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use Exact Fabric for testing

When working with decorative stitches always do a test sample on your actual fabric with the correct number of layers, etc. If the pattern doesn't quite look right you might need to use the balance buttons just a little bit. That little bit of extra care and attention will take your stitching from being practically perfect to being perfect.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use Samples for Accurate Placement

When I use motifs, the built in monogramming, or any lettering on a project I first make a test sample on actual fabric/layers. I cut this out roughly along the pattern lines, marking the starting and ending points with a marker. (Also make sure you're aware of which direction the machine stitches the pattern in.) I use this sample to place the motif on the garment, transferring the starting and ending points using a pins and then a water soluble marker. While the acetate templates included with the machine are quite accurate the size of the pattern might vary a little depending on the fabric used. Also, you may need to adjust the balance buttons (see the insert in your instruction manual) to get a perfect motif on your fabric.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Cover Coded Feet in Storage

Use a scrap of soft fabric to cover the coded portion of your buttonhole foot when it is in the accessory case. My dealer said that many a time a screw from the back of one of the feet in the upper rack has fallen and scratched the prism, rendering the foot useless. This would NOT be covered under warrantee. When I travel I also place a piece of soft cloth over the upper rack of the accessory case so that it extends over the prisms of the other feet. Better to be safe than sorry

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Make your own "Rattail Cord" (Sew_N_Quilt@usa.pipeline.com)

Why would anyone want to make colored cording...let me count the reasons:

  1. It's midnight and you need something to jazz up a plain outfit to wear tomorrow.
  2. You want a "perfect" match and you can't find the right color at the store.
  3. You want a cord that's finer than rattail.
  4. You're just nuts about your machine and can't resist using it for any reason!

 

Supplies needed:

Instructions:

    1. If you're using a fine string, thread this in the hole in the # 6 foot. If you're using a thick string, put the cord in the center "groove" of the #31 foot.

    2. Put the two layers of stabilizer under the foot/cord. This will allow the machine to "automatically" feed the cord. It must be wide enough to over the feed dogs.

    3. Set your machine for a sating stitch which is just a HAIR wider than the cord. he tension should be set loose (around 2-3) so that the top thread wraps completely around the cord as much as possible. (I don't think it'll ever TOTALLY wrap the cord...use the same color rayon thread in the bobbin so that you get a "solid" look.)

    4. BEFORE YOU STITCH - make sure that there is uncovered cord and stabilizer extending behind the foot by 1/4"...this will ensure that the cord doesn't get stuffed down the hole in the throat plate.

    5. Start stitch slowly, watching to see if the stitch width and length are correct. The needle should never enter the filler cord, but should be VERY CLOSE to it. The stitches should be very close together, without bunching up. My favorite method for setting the length is...use the dial to set it to the satin stitch setting. Then, for fine adjustments use the vertical balance (down for close together and up for further apart). I just can't seem to use the dial to move just one point!

    6. Keep stitching until you've done as much cord as you want. If you get to the end of the stabilizer strip, just overlap another set of two strips underneath and start sewing again.

    7. When you're finished, removed the stabilizer from around the sides of the cord. Mist with water to remove the whiskers.

     

Notes/Variations:

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Putting a Lock on The Stitch Width (Myra Hills, hills@freenet.scri.fsu.edu)

"I don't know if this is a new idea or not--I discovered it on my own though others may know this. There have been a couple of complaints that the 1630 has no lock on the stitch-width control, and if the sewer is quilting she might accidentally bump the width control and suddenly find a zig-zag in the midst of her stitch-in-the-ditch line. If you activate the secure stitch function--A1/12--your stitch-width will be locked at 0. You will have to sew "on air" for the first few stitches, then you're O.K. until you deactivate this stitch. I haven't tested this yet in actual machine quilting but have tested it with the #1 coded foot. Am waiting to hear from another machine quilter as to how she likes this technique."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Unthread wisely (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

"We always are reminded at every meeting of how to unthread a machine by clipping the thread at the spool and pulling the thread down thru the needle. Keeps from running lint back into the tension. Also to unthread the bobbin case by dropping the bobbin into your hand and clipping the thread. Pull the remaining thread out of the bobbin from the outside of the bobbin case --- the same way it would come out if in the machine. This method will keep the spring inside the bobbin case from bending causing poor tension.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Use Knee Life when changing feet (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

"Use your knee lift for changing feet and changing the stitch plate. Feed dogs automatically drop and there is the extra room at the presser foot. Really helps with the walking foot.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Making piping: keeping it in place (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

"When making piping with the zipper foot use the left quilting guide to help cording in place.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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29C foot great for FME (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

"Foot #29C is out now. Coded Freehand Embroidery Foot. Wow, what a difference the 9 mm makes with free hand embroidery. Very, very nice. (Of course Wayne also makes it look soooo easy to do. I need more practice.)

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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New booklets: Designer & Pivotal Stitches (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

"Two new booklets like the "Designer Stitches" are out now. "Directional Stitches" and " Pivotal Stitches" both look very informative."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Switch between coded and non-coded feet for stitch width (Diane)

Diane says that when she is doing decorative stitches she often switches between her coded open toe (20) foot and her non coded one to change the stitch width instead of using the dial.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Design your own running quilt motifs (Ann durbina@aol.com)

"I have used the design screen feature (stitch designer) to make running quilt motifs - one was a triangle bisected by a line, sort of Flying Geese looking... another was a curly wave... these are best for moving along a thin border, about 2-3", which is already secured by ditch stitching on both sides (because the walking foot can't be used with all the sideways motion).

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Martha Pullen/Sandra Betzina tablecloth and napkins (Suzy shutton@cello.gina.calstate.edu)

"I made a Thanksgiving tablecloth and napkins using a combination of suggestions from Sandra Betzina and Martha Pullen. Sandra Betzina's column is available on the web from the San Francisco Chronicle, and she had a wonderful way to do napkin hems. She suggested first pulling threads to straighten, turn under one inch, and hem stitch from the right side using wing needle which would also catch raw edge on the under side. Specific stitch directions I got from Martha Pullen's Sewing Room." See the Entredeux for 1630 stitch.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Sewing Lycra (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)

"When sewing lycra, use a ballpoint needle, and stop occasionally to let the fabric relax with the needle in needle down position. Do not use a walking foot, but match notches. Can also use twin needles (3-4mm)."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Simulated Embroidery Stem Stitch (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)

"A 1/11 is a good stitch for simulating the stem stitch in embroidery." (Use the preset settings and an embroidery thread for best results.)

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Securing Stitch (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)

"When using the straight stitch for seams, also activate A 1/12 securing stitch as well. Remember to touch the reverse button (on the head of the machine, just to the right of the needle bar) lightly at the end of seams. Another way to tie off is to lower the feed dogs, or set the stitch length to 0."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Solving Tunneling (Pat 75563.2647@compuserve.com)

"If tunneling occurs, change the foot or use a stabilizer."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Going Round in Circles (Gill Thomas 100131.1274@CompuServe.COM)

"This is something I learned on my "Bernina� Day" when I bought my 1630.

Many of the stitches on menu D work for this, but I suggest using my favorite, D3 to begin with. Set the single pattern, and the needle down. Stitch D3*1, pivot the fabric 90 degrees clockwise, then stitch out D3 once more. Pivot 90 degrees clockwise, stitch D3 a third time, pivot 90 degrees clockwise once again ad stitch D3 a fourth time - which should bring you back to the beginning, having stitch a lovely circular motif. Having done this try pivoting anti-clockwise - this creates a square "snowflake" type design.

Have a go with the other D menu stitches too - D5 produces a great circular motif with a Japanese feel to it, and D9 used anti-clockwise is equally pretty."

My Notes: This is a great way to extend the stitches in the machine into motifs of a variety of sizes. It will work with almost any stitch that has a definite pattern repeat when stitched with Single Pattern engaged. You could even stings together a couple of stitches into the memory to further expand the technique. Some of the stitches I've tried successfully

To make it easier to turn exactly 90 degrees, stitch the first pattern, using Single Pattern, Securing Function, and Needle Stop Down. Before rotating the fabric take a water or air soluble marker and draw along one side of the presser foot. Now rotate the fabric in the desired direction, making sure before you stitch that the line you just drew is parallel to the front of the presser foot. Repeat. Generally, you will only need to draw lines for the first two rotations; this will be enough to ensure that the motif will meet up and the end.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Puckering Fabric (Wanda Wheeler wheeler@Onramp.NET)

"Settings for puckering the fabric:

Rows of stitching across fabric approximately 5/8" apart produced beautiful puckering. Since the fabric was a check (gingham) it made the task of sewing straight much easier. Continue sewing row of puckering until desired length of garment. Leave to finish bottom edge. Care should be taken to avoid sewing in puckers. Place a finger in front of the foot to smooth out the fabric as it moves under it. Before cutting out the garment make a paper pattern slightly smaller than the original as the garment hugs the body beautifully.

Stay stitch around each fabric piece twice before constructing the garment to secure the elastic thread. Bias binding was used t finish edges around neck and arms."

Notes: To wind the bobbin with elastic thread do so by hand. Thread a tail of the thread through one of the inner holes just as you would for winding a regular bobbin. Wind the thread evenly onto the bobbin stretching gently if the fabric you are working with is lightweight, not stretching for other fabrics. Be sure that the bobbin is wound evenly.

You can also make a grid on the fabric for more interest. Do all of the lines in one direction and then turn the fabric for the other direction. As you stitch it slightly stretch out the gathers you have already sewn so as to not sew in puckers.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Gathering Sleeves ("One Teeny Tiny Idea") (Mary Barry embee@jax-inter.net)

"When I gather a sleeve to adjust for ease, I start the stitch on 0... let the needle go in about 4 times to lock the stitch, then baste. I go back to the same place to start the second line of stitching and do the same thing. This makes it easy to pull up the stitches, and most importantly, prevents the thread from coming through."
 

"Also, on the subject of sleeves, when attaching the sleeve, I keep my left hand underneath the bodice, on the sleeve, and roll the sleeve so I don't get any of those sideways pleats. This keeps the gathers perpendicular with the needle. Try it... it sews better than it tells."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Winding Monofilament on the Bobbin (Pam Kartak 104212.3700@Compuserve.com)

Always wind bobbin slowly; remember speed control does not affect the bobbin when winding, only the foot peddle will control the speed. Winding monofilament to fast causes it to stretch and wind very tight on the bobbin. You can actually break a metal bobbin doing it too tight. Wind bobbin only half full with monofilament thread.

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Embroidered Suit Jacket (Lorraine ekarl19@server.iadfw.net)

"I had some chambray that was too heavy to get the desired effect with winged needle embroidery so I used the machine stitches, Sulky rayon and it looks great on a suit jacket I just made for work.

STEP 1: Draw some simple flowers, leaves and stems keeping about 1 to 1 � inches from the fabric center front edges. The petals I made were slightly wider than my thumb at their widest point.

STEP 2: For the leaves and stamens I used G 1/1 and CHANGED the default width to 1.

STEP 3: For the flower petals I used G 1/7 with PATTERN EXTENSION set to 2.

Always begin at the point farthest away from the center of the flower.
Always use pattern begin.
Start on the right side of the petal point.
Sew the "points" of the stitch towards the inside of the petal.
Use mirror image right-left to sew the left side of the flower petal.
ALWAYS use PATTERN BEGIN at the flower petal point.

STEP 4: For the flower center I used C 1/9 set at machine default. I dewed several of these in the center until it was filled."

HINT: When using the G 1/1 stitch, I found it VERY helpful to sew with the NEEDLE STOP DOWN position AND when I made little curling tendrils coming off the stems I found it VERY helpful to also use PATTERN END programmed for automatic stop after ONE pattern. This made adjusting the direction of tight curves VERY controlled."

My notes: Lorraine, who has a 1530, very generously helped me with the stitch conversions-the ones I used above ARE the correct 1630 stitches. As she has a 1530, the default stitch width for such patterns as G 1/7 would be 5. Remember to reset your width. I used the #20 Open Toe Applique Foot. The petal shape is pointed at the outer end, widening until about the middle of the length, and then narrowing towards the center, but not coming to a point there. Stitch the petals with the point of G1/7 facing out.

After engaging Pattern Begin stitch around the petal, stopping, regardless of your place in the pattern, when you reach the center area of the flower. Press Pattern Begin and repeat as necessary. If you reduce the stitch length to make the pattern fuller you might have to up the pattern extension number to compensate. (See the section on scallops for more info.)

Other stitch options:

 

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Save memory by using Designer Software (0002052280@mcimail.com)

"You also asked what other are doing with their machines. I have the Computer Software V.2 for the Bernina� Designer. I have been creating quilting stitches on the Computer instead of on the on-screen designer. They are easier to work with this way, and they are not taking up memory space on the 1630 or a memory key(s). Two memory keys has just about paid for the software."

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Applique Ideas (Wanda Wheeler wheeler@Onramp.NET)

"You can use your basic pants suit pattern. I used the upper front of jacket to cut a pattern for a single layer overlay. All of the embellishment was done on the overlay before being attached to the front of the jacket. The mirror image was used on the opposite front.

The buttons are wooden. Each time I wear this outfit, I get rave reviews.

Hope this will inspire some of you. If you have questions E-Mail me personally. "

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.

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Back to the main page of Marji Piech's 1630 Notes and Fantasy Stitches

The original contributors (including, but no limited to Marji Piech) retain the copyright � 1996-2003 to their contributions and Marji Piech retains the  copyright � 1996-2003 to the compilation of this information ("The Marji Piech Fantasy Stitches" pages under http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/). Permission has been granted to publish the compilation on the 1630 web site (http://www.AshleyCaroline.com/sewing/1630/) in a reformatted version but with original contact intact.

If you would like to reproduce these pages (either in print or electronically), please contact Marji Piech for permission.