| Week # | Topic | Cross Reference Info |
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Corded Appliqu�, page 1 and 2 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit B Embroidery foot page 17, Unit E Clear Appliqu� foot page 19� |
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Hemstitched Fabric Appliqu�, page 3 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit E Open Embroidery foot, Unit F 5 groove embroidery foot, Unit E Cording Foot |
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Madeira Appliqu�, page 5 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit E, page 4 Shadow Appliqu� |
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Synthetic Suede Appliqu�, page 7 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Units B and E have some non-specific appliqu� instructions which apply to this topic. |
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Battenberg Lace, pages 9-13 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit C, Darning foot #9; Unit E, Freehand Embroidery foot #24 |
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Decorative Threads on the Bobbin, pages 15 & 16 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit B, Page 20 |
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Embroidery with Automatic Patterns, pages 17--21 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit B & D:� Non specific instructions for using the #6 embroidery foot and the open embroidery foot #20 |
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Freehand Embroidery, pages 23 & 24 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit E Page 22� #24 Freehand embroidery foot Unit C Page 2� #9 Darning Foot |
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Eyelet Embroidery, pages 25--27 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit A Page 17 Preprogrammed Eyelets Unit J Page 5--8 Eyelet Attachment, Unit K Page 16 Preprogrammed Eyelets |
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Fantasy Stitches, pages 29--32 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Ashley's website: http://www.ashleycaroline.com/sewing/1630/ |
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Calvin Klein Designer Hem, pages 33 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit C Page 16 Handkerchief Hem |
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Replique Hem, pages 35 & 36 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
I couldn't find a Feetures section for this hem, Look in Unit C for how to use the #10 edgestitch foot |
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Feetures Unit F 5 Groove Pintuck foot |
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Drawn Thread Hemstitching, pages 39 & 40 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I |
Feetures Unit B and E for the references to the #6 and #20 embroidery feet |
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Feetures Unit B, pages 27--30� Jeans foot #8 |
Week 1 Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Corded Appliqu�, page 1 and 2 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit B Embroidery foot page 17, Unit E Clear Appliqu� foot page 19
Corded appliqu� is a variation of the appliqu� we did last year. The difference is that a cord is satin stitched in place along the edge of the pattern to give it a dimensional appearance.
The embroidery foot #6 has a hole in the center to thread the cord thru, this makes it a lot easier to satin stitch over the cord because the presser foot holds the cord in place. Use the flat part of the knee lift to hold the spool of pearl crown cord. Use needle stop down setting while stitching around the appliqu�.
Remember our 1630's have a unique feature, we can adjust the width of the zigzag satin stitches while the machine is stitching, this makes a nice even reduction of the stitch width that is particularly nice when coming to an inside point like where the two curves come together or at the tips of an arrow point.
Tip: Use an iron on tear away stabilizer on the wrong side of the base fabric. This will eliminate puckering and keep the base fabric flat while stitching.
Now go sew and come back and tell us how you did. Also share any tips and suggestions too.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
back up to the top
Week 2 Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Hemstitched Fabric Applique, page 3 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Use this foot to add cording to the rows of hemstitching, put strands of cord in the outer grooves, leave the center one empty, the cords will emphasize the hemstitching.
On page 37 of the supplement I is a nice description of hemstitching. If you've never done hemstitching, by all means review that section before making your appliqu� piece.
Important: Pay particular attention to Direction #2 on turning the handwheel backwards to remove the needles from the fabric before turning.
I prefer to spray the hemstitched piece lightly with KK2000 temporary adhesive spray, place the hemstitched appliqu� piece on top of the base fabric, stitch around once with a straight stitch, then trim away the excess appliqu� fabric just outside the stitch line, then follow with a layer of loose 3mm satin stitches. Then cut away the base fabric under the hemstitched appliqu�, and stitch again over the stitches with 4mm satin stitches.
This technique makes an interesting look on linen blouses, especially when combined with pintucks and other designs that you can accomplish with your 1630 using the built in wide stitches.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 3� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Madeira Appliqu�, page 5 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit E, page 4 Shadow Appliqu�
Madeira appliqu� uses the pin stitch to hemstitch and attach an appliqu� in one step.� The appliqu� piece can be placed on top of the background fabric, or underneath.� When the appliqu� is place underneath, it is called shadow appliqu�.
The secret to great appliqu� on fine fabrics like cotton batiste or organdy is starch.� Heavily starch the background and appliqu� fabrics.� Perfect Sew is wonderful for this.
I prefer the water soluble stabilizer method.� Draw or trace the appliqu� design onto the water soluble stabilizer with a permanent ink pen (don't use water soluble ink because the ink may run when you wet the area to remove the water soluble stabilizer).� When the stabilizer dissolves, the permanent ink lines will disappear.
I lightly spray the stabilizer with adhesive spray (KK2000 works best for me) and stick it to the top.� Place the design in the correct location.� I spray the appliqu� fabric and adhere it to the background fabric, then stitch the design using a single wing needle, after stitching,� remove the excess appliqu� fabric.� (Make sure the appliqu� fabric overlaps all the design edges.)
Use stitch A, 1, 9 with a #100 single wing needle for stitching the applique.� (The stitch recommended in the AGW is for an earlier machine, I
could not find the conversion stitch on the chart)� Adjust the stitch width and length to match the picture.� Trim away any excess appliqu� fabric close to the stitches, but do not clip any of the stitches.
I prefer to use the uncoded #20 Open embroidery foot with the 5mm plate, because I like the finer stitches.� When ever you use a wing needle, be sure and turn the machine by hand to make sure the needle doesn't hit the presser foot.� This is especially true when using the narrower feet and plates.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 4� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Synthetic Suede Applique, page 7 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
When I think of synthetic suede, Ultrasuede immediately comes to mind, but there are other brands and types of synthetic suede.� Most if not all synthetic suede is knit, hence it doesn't ravel, and need the edges turned under.� Irons leave marks on synthetic suede, so it isn't a good idea to use fusibles like WonderUnder.� Before KK2000 spray adhesive was available, I used "Steam-A-Seam 2" a double stick fabric fusing web or "WonderTape"� (a wash-away basting tape by Dritz)� Now I just spray the piece to be appliqued lightly with KK2000 (love that stuff) and stick it to the background fabric.
Tips:� If you can't match the thread to the applique fabric, and don't want to use a contrasting colored thread, use clear or smoke polyester thread instead of nylon monofilament, it is easier on your sewing machine, and gives nicer results.� The clear Poly thread is much softer than the nylon monofilament.
Cut your applique templates out of cardboard or plastic template material, label them top and bottom.� Draw the shape on the bottom side of the suede and cut out the shapes.� Ignore any grain lines, because any nap of the suede ads dimension to the applique.
The directions in the AGW call for making templates of freezer paper and ironing them to the right side of the suede.� If you try this method use a WARM iron and only for one or two seconds!!� I prefer the cardboard or plastic template method above.
Grab some Ultrasuede scraps and try applique, the results are amazing.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 5� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Battenberg Lace, pages 9-13 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit C, Darning foot #9; Unit E, Freehand Embroidery foot #24
Battenberg lace is made by shaping special linen or cotton tape into swirling designs and filling in the centers with decorative filler stitches. There is a nice description and illustrations of the filler stitches in Feetures.
This is done by first drawing the shape on water soluble stabilizer with a permanent pen.� It is important to use permanent ink so it won't run when the stabilizer is washed away.� Use a glue stick to temporarily stick the tape in place following the design lines for sewing.� Start small!� Try making one of the tear drop shapes first, after you've make one or two and feel comfortable with the technique, then attempt the lace design on page 9. It would make a lovely insertion on a white t-shirt, or make three tear drop shapes and insert them on the front of a t-shirt.
On page 13 of the AGW Supplement I, there are directions for making French Knots which several have been asking about.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 6� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Decorative Threads on the Bobbin, pages 15 & 16 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit B, Page 20
For this technique you will be sewing WRONG SIDE UP.� By putting decorative thread in the bobbin, you can achieve interesting results.� You WILL need an extra bobbin case to do this technique.� DO NOT adjust the bobbin tension of your only bobbin case, it should remain at the factory setting.� Also be advised that using heavy threads in the bobbin may damage the tension spring of your bobbin case.� When using heavy threads you may want to bypass the tension spring and have the thread come out the slit of the bobbin case.
If� the thread you choose to use is thick or heavy, hand wind it on the bobbin, do not attempt to use the machine's bobbin winder.� The oscillating hook machines had a "black latch" (wool) bobbin case which was a standard case with a black latch to distinguish them from the regular steel colored latch bobbin cases.� Our 1630's did not have a "black latch" bobbin case available, so we� bought an extra bobbin case and marked it with a permanent marker.� (nail polish is not advised because it tends to chip and may cause problems)� Note:� DO NOT use your "Gold latch" bobbin case for this technique.� The tension spring of the Gold latch bobbin case should be kept at factory setting.� When adjusting your bobbin tension, put the bobbin case in a plastic bag to adjust the screw.� The screw is very small and it is easy to� unscrew it, if it falls into carpet it is nearly impossible to find.� (don't ask how I know!!)
You can use various open type stitches for different effects of bobbin work. The scallop stitch is very effective, as is the feather stitch, and Greek key stitch.� Depending on the thickness of the bobbin thread, the straight stitch also is nice.� Experiment with different threads and settings until you find ones you like, then stitch out samples and write the settings down so you can do them again.
Sew with the fabric WRONG SIDE UP, if you ad a stabilizer layer, put it on top of the fashion fabric.� Adding stabilizer often helps prevent tunneling and distortion of the fabric when using special stitch patterns.� You may need to adjust your top tension and lengthen your stitches.
Tip:� Try using #12 Perle cotton thread in the bobbin when you first try this technique.� This is a thicker thread than usual, but can be wound slowly using your bobbin winder and creates an interesting effect without requiring a lot of machine adjustments.� There is a new #12 embroidery thread available also.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 7� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Embroidery with Automatic Patterns, pages 17--21 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
This exercise is using the built-in patterns for decorative embellishment on garments or home dec. items.� Even those of us with embroidery machines will find the built-in stitch patterns of our 1630 machines useful, especially to enhance our embroidered designs.� Can't you see a sun enhanced with the rings on page 20?� Or quilt labels made using the triangle corners� on page 19 made into rectangles to frame the label?
Matching patterns as shown on page 18 is tricky, use the mirror image to accomplish the designs.
Stitch settings for the 1630 machine are:
|
Stitch |
Width |
Length |
|
E2/6 for the Decorative Braid or Ribbon |
Width:� 5 |
Length:� Satin stitch |
|
E2/7 for the borders |
Width: 5 |
Length:� Satin stitch |
|
E2/7 or E2/8 for the Flowers and Stars |
Width: preset |
Length:� preset |
|
E2/6� for the Corner |
Width: 5 |
Length:� Satin stitch |
Try stitching these out on sample fabric, adjust your machine settings and write them down on the sample so you can do them again.
If any of you are doing the Latte Quilt, the built-in patterns are quite useful in enhancing the blocks.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 8� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Freehand Embroidery, pages 23 & 24 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Freehand embroidery by machine is done with the feed dogs lowered, neither of these presser feet are meant to come in contact with the feed dogs.� You will need an embroidery hoop to do embroidery, there is a wooden hoop available that has a scooped out area to make it easier to place under the presser foot of the machine.� You also need stabilizer to hoop with the fabric.
Draw the design on the fabric, or onto water soluble stabilizer which you pin to the fabric.� It is best to start with a simple design at first, or perhaps some free motion swirls and curlicues.� After you are comfortable moving the hoop and develop a rhythm, then try a more complicated design.
For machine embroidery you hoop the opposite way from hand embroidery. Place the outer ring of the hoop on the table, then place the stabilizer and fabric over the hoop and insert the inner ring so the fabric is flat against the table.� Align the scooped out area of the hoop and place the hoop under the presser foot so the fabric lays flat against the machine.
Take a stitch to pull the bobbin thread to the top of the fabric and hold onto the tails while you take a few more stitches to lock the thread, then cut off the tails.
Either of the above presser feet work, the #24 foot is cut away in front so you have better visibility for following the drawn design lines.� Both of these feet limit your stitch width to 5mm.
Keep the hoop straight, move it side to side and up and down, but do not turn or twist the hoop.� Think in terms of 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock when moving the hoop.
Important:� Make sure to lower the presser foot, otherwise the tension disks will not feed the thread properly.� Lower the presser foot even if you are doing free motion without a presser foot.
If anyone is making the Latte Quilt and doesn't have an embroidery machine, with practice you can freehand embroidery the designs for your quilt.
�Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 9� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Eyelet Embroidery, pages 25--27 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
�Our 1630 Machines have an eyelet design programmed into them, however if you want to do eyelet embroidery you will need the Eyelet Attachment # 82 and presserfoot #92 and a machine embroidery hoop, which is a wooden hoop with a scooped out area for ease in placing under the presser foot.
The Bernina eyelet embroidery kit contains a set of awls and punches for making perfect eyelet holes, and a set of eyelet studs for holding the fabric in place while the eyelet is stitching.� Foot #92 looks similar to the darning foot, but has a base that fits on top of the eyelet to make perfect eyelet circles.� You can also make free motion eyelets in various shapes, i.e. teardrops.
If you don't have the eyelet kit, try the preprogrammed eyelets.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 10� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Fantasy Stitches, pages 29--32 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Ashley's website: http://www.ashleycaroline.com/sewing/1630/
Our 1630 Machines have the capacity to combine stitches and functions to create many new stitch patterns.� Marji Piech mastered these techniques and shared her Fantasy Stitches with us.� They are available at Ashley's website. (Note: You Are There!)
In addition there are Refa's Insertions and Gina's Heirloom Stitches.
You can create your own Fantasy stitches by taking one stitch and combining it with each of the machine functions.
Balance �
Continuous reverse
Mirror image
Double Stitch
Double Needle
and Memory
This is one of the most fun parts of owning a 1630 machine and I hope you will experiment then write to the list and tell about your results.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 11� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Calvin Klein Designer Hem, pages 33 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit C Page 16 Handkerchief Hem
The handkerchief hem is not quite the same as the Calvin Klein hem, but for those of you without the AGW, you can follow along by doing the handkerchief hem and learn the technique.
The Designer hem is a two step process, first turn under the raw edge of the fabric 3/8 inch, and press, then stitch with the fabric fold against the blade of the #10 presser foot.� Trim away as close as possible to the stitches, then turn and stitch again with the new fold against the left side of the #10 presser foot blade.
This makes a nice hem for handkerchiefs because the double row of stitches on the back side helps keep the hems from rolling.
Note:� I am sending both Week 10 and Week 11 tonight because I will be away attending the Bootcamp Retreat next weekend.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 12� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Replique Hem, pages 35 & 36 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
The Replique or shadow hem is a technique for decorative hemming where the fabric is folded back onto itself to create a shadow effect.� It is most effective on thin fabrics where the second layer shadows thru.� The hem is stitched with either a wing needle or a large #120 size needle.
The technique described in the AGW say to draw a scalloped line on the turned up portion with a water soluble marker and stitch from the right side following the line.� Our 1630 machines have lovely scallop stitches built-in to them and they can be adjusted in length and width.� Try this technique using G1-8 first, then G2-9 and G2-9.� Invoke the speed regulator to 2/3 speed, and use the #40 multidirectional foot instead of #10.� Stitch so that there will be about a 1/4 inch of fabric to the edge beyond the scallops, you will trim this away later.
I'm not sure why this technique comes before the Hemstitching which will be Week 13 that I'll send today because it uses the wing needle for doing the hem.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 13� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Hemstitching, pages 37 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit F 5 Groove Pintuck foot
Hemstitching is making holes in the fabric with a wing needle.� It is beautiful on collars, linens and heirloom sewing.� Menu G1 has several hem stitch variations.� G1-2� is my favorite, try them all and let us know which you prefer.
For the replique hem technique in Week 12, you can use any of these stitches when you draw your own hemlines.
The technique described on page 37 of the AGW supplement uses the zig-zag stitch and makes two rows of stitching.� You use the 5 groove pintuck foot to keep the rows even.� When using the pintuck foot you can ad a cording underneath to enhance the hemstitching and give it a more raised appearance.
Mary Lou Nall showed us how to do this at the Bootcamp Retreat, and it is covered nicely in her books which are available from Bernina dealers, or from her directly.� They are still "in print" and are reasonably priced at around $7.00 each.� She also has video's showing her demonstrating how to do the techniques.� Her books are available from her website:
http://www2.ari.net/home/rain/mln.html
Today I'm going to add week 14 Drawn Thread Hemstitching since all three of these techniques really do go together.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 14� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Drawn Thread Hemstitching, pages 39 & 40 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement I
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit B and E for the references to the #6 and #20 embroidery feet
In Week 13, we covered hemstitching, this week we'll continue by pulling 2 or 3 threads from the width of a piece of batiste or organdy.� Select Stitch D1-6 the Honeycomb stitch and guide the center of the presser foot down the center of the pulled threads.� You should have a row of even open stitches.
To create a wider pattern, pull another 2 or 3 threads, then skipping 3 or 4 threads and pulling out 2 or 3 more threads.� Select stitch G1-1 and set the stitch width wide enough to cover the width of both rows of pulled threads. Guide the center of the presser foot down the center of the 3 or 4 threads row and you should have two rows of even open stitches.
I suggest you use starched batiste or organdy for sewing out your samples.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.
Week 15� Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long
Jeans Foot, pages 41 &42 Bernina Advanced Guide Supplement
Cross Reference:� Feetures Unit B, pages 27--30� Jeans foot #8
The #8 Bernina Jeans Foot is a straight stitch presser foot.� The foot plate is designed to guide the needle thru thick fabrics and reduce or eliminate needle breakage.� When stitching thru heavy fabrics use a size #100 or #110 needle.� Schmetz makes special Jeans/Denim needles that are available in an assorted package sized #90 thru #110.
This is the presser foot of choice for hemming jeans.� To hem jeans I find it best to reduce the bulk over the seams.� After I turn up the hems, I trim away the seam area on the turned over area of the thick seams and use the plastic leveler tool that came in our accessory boxes (the three layers of plastic) to keep the presser foot level.� In my experience, I've broken fewer needles by using the shims.� Also I turn the wheel by hand if stitching thru tough heavy fabrics.
The jeans foot cannot be used for any of the decorative stitches, but can be used for narrow zigzag stitches up to stitch width 1.� This allows using the foot for stretch seams on knits or lycra stretch fabrics.�� It works well with the triple stitch setting of the 1630 machines too.
For topstitching, the jeans foot is an excellent choice because of the shape of the groove on the bottom of the foot.� The flat sole of the foot helps hold the fabric in close contact with the feed dogs.� There is a place on the back of the foot to attach the guide, (that's what the little screw is for) when topstitching the guide helps with even stitch placement.
Carol in the Redwoods
(^..^) purrrrr.............
mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net
http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc
http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger
Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or
Feetures book.