Carol Evans' Advanced Guide Workbook
(AGW)
Sew-A-Long


Read my disclaimer and technical info about these pages.

These pages last updated:  05/02/2007

 

These lessons were posted by Carol Evans in 2000-2001.  They were posts for a Sew-A-Long for the Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook.  Carol has kindly given permission for the posts to be put here on the web site for future reference by all.  All posts are copyright � Carol Evans 2002-2003.  You can print these out for personal use as long as the copyright information is retained.

Carol's sew-a-long lessons for Supplement I of the Guidebook are here.

Here's the post from Carol explaining this sew-a-long:

Sun, 13 Jan 2002 14:33:23 -0800

Author: "Carol Evans" <redwoodenc@earthlink.net>

Subject: Week 1 Advanced Guide Supplement I Sew A Long

 

This is the first of the 2002 series of Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook (AGW) Sew A Longs.

In 2002 we will be using the two Supplements to the Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook. These supplements are available as extra's to the AGW. The first Supplement was issued with instructions for the 1130 and 1230 computerized machines. The stitch settings are for these machines. In the front of Supplement II, is a conversion chart with the stitch settings for our 1630 machines.

For our list members who live where the Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook is not available, I will attempt to cross reference the techniques to the Bernina Feetures Notebook.

 


 

List of Lessons:

Week #

Topic

Cross Reference Info

Week 1 

Basic Applique

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 1 and 2 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E , pages

Week 2

Blind Applique

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 3 and 4 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 4

Week 3

Decorative Stitch Applique

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 5 and 6 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 5

Week 4

Easy Applique

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 7 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 2

Week 5

Reverse Applique.

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 9

Week 6

3 Dimensional Applique.

Advanced Guide Workbook Page 11

Week 7

Bias Binder

Advance Guide Workbook p. 13 Cross Reference:Feetures Unit J pp. 19 - 20

Week 8

Boucle Stitch.

Advanced Guide Workbook pages 15 & 16 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit C page 1 (Darning Foot #9)

Week 9

Braiding Foot #21.

Advanced Guide Workbook pages 17, 18 & 19 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E pages 7 - 12

Week 10

Bulky Overlock Foot #12.

Advanced Guide Workbook page 21 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit C page 33

Week 11

Button Sew-On Foot (#18 or #7)

Advanced Guide Workbook page 23 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit D pages 19 - 22

Week 12

Charted Needlework.

Advanced Guide Workbook page 25 Cross reference: Feetures Unit A

Week 13

Chenille Stitch.

Advanced Guide Workbook page 27 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit B

Week 14

Circular Embroidery Attachment #83.

Advanced Guide Workbook page 29 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit J

Week 15

Corded Edges.

Advanced Guide Workbook page 31 Cross Reference: Feetures Unit B, pages 16 & 17 Feetures Unit D, Non-automatic buttonhole foot

 



Week 1 Advanced Guide Workbook Sew-A-Long

Basic Appliqu�

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 1 and 2
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E , pages1 - 6

Suggestions: 

Use starched muslin squares 6 inches for the background and a contrasting color for the appliqu�.

Don't cut out the appliqu� shape until after it is stitched to the background using the first setting. 

Pick out a design(s) that incorporates corners, points and curves. 

Consider using a separate muslin square for each shape, i.e., a box for the corners, a circle for the curves and an arrow shape for the points.

Remember our 1630's have a unique feature, we can adjust the width of the zigzag satin stitches while the machine is stitching, this makes a nice even reduction of the stitch width that is particularly nice when coming to an inside point like where the two curves at the top of the heart come together or at the tips of an arrow point.

Now go sew and come back and tell us how you did. I'll try to finish my website today so I can post pictures of the Sew-A-Long there.

The URL is: http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc/

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

  

Related Posts�����

To create a mitered picture frame effect on a square shape, move your needle position to the "full right".Set your width at 2.5mm - 4.0mm (width is determined by the size of the applique piece).Begin your Satin Stitch midway on the right side of the square.Make sure the needle is stitching mostly on the applique piece and just barely "falling off the edge" on the right.As you near the first corner, reduce the width as you stitch.Your satin stitch will miter into the corner.Sink the needle into the corner *REMEMBER*

Tap your foot control with your heel to lower or raise the needle as needed - This is our exclusive Bernina half stitch feature!With the needle in the fabric, use your exclusive knee lift to raise the presser foot.Pivot the fabric and lower the presser foot.As you begin to sew again, widen the stitch.With a little practice - a Perfect Miter!

I have put up some pictures of satin stitching at: http://ginabea.com/cutwork/index.html

��� -- gina butler in OKC

There was a discussion about "threading the bobbin case finger" (and why we don't do that with 1630s) and of the 'pigtail' bobbins.Read that discussion here.

  

For all machine embroidery/applique I use the straight stitch set for a tie off.This gives me total control of where the needle ends the stitch.It is easy to go between the satin stitch -back to the straight stitch to tie off - then back to satin stitching. Our 1630 will remember every change you have made to every stitch until the machine is turned off.

Most of my applique is done at apx. 2.5mm constant width.I actually try to avoid going to 0mm in the corners (except for tying off) because this could allow the applique to loosen in washing.But it is a fun trick that is a good exercise to practice and who knows when you may be glad that you have already experienced this technique.

But let's make it even simpler to perform this feat.�� Instead of mitering on the first side - leave your width (let's say 4mm).�� When you reach the corner, sink your needle in the right side.Raise the foot (using your knee lever of course!) and pivot the work 90 degrees.While the foot is still raised - reduce the width to Zero or near Zero.Lower the presser foot. The needle is still sunk in the corner on the right side of the square.Slowly begin your satin stitch and widen the stitch width back to its original setting.Maintain this width into the next corner and repeat for each side.This will be a more secure applique as well as being easier to achieve a great mitered corner. Here is an URL for an example: http://members.home.com/gbokc/miter.jpg Unable to view these pages via the Internet - I am more than happy to send you the file as an attachment.

��� -- gina butler in OKC

Lesson 1 - Tips

1. Use the silky thread guide on the handle to aid in stitch quality (top part of machine).

2. Use a bobbin weight thread in the bobbin case.

3. I have told many students to roll top tension to buttonhole setting.ONLY "monkey" with the bobbin case if you have an extra one. Because I've had a bobbin case become more than one major part.

4. Use a microtex needle or if using machine embroidery thread use an embroidery needle. Generally machine embroidery thread will fill in better and give a smoother look.

5. The better stitch quality is with the 5mm plate and 5mm width foot (reg. foot #20 over coded foot #20 (9mm).

6. Stabilize, stabilize, and stabilize your work.

7. Use foot #20 because you can see where you are sewing and it is grooved out to accept the thread build-up.

8. For turning corners or curves you must watch the swing of the needle.This makes for an eye-hand-foot-machine exercise.

9. Use fabric glue stick to hold shape on base fabric. No pins will get caught or hung-up while you are sewing.

10. Don't forget to use the securing function (upper level - near stitch width) to start and stop your stitching.

11. Also I know that many of you will get very excited about your success but, please breathe (don't hold your breath) VBG when you are sewing and don't lean on your FHS as you sew.

12. Practice, Practice, and Practice.

��� -- Gracie in Palmyra

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 2 Advanced Guide Workbook Sew A Long

Blind Appliqu�

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 3 and 4
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 4

Suggestions:

Use the heart templates on page 4, cut the finished size template of sturdy cardboard, like a cracker box.

When stitching the cord, make sure you don't catch any of it in the zigzag stitches.

Use Sulky poly invisible thread instead of monofiliment thread when stitching down your appliqu�.

Spray the back of the appliqu� with temporary adhesive spray like KK2000, or use a glue stick to hold the appliqu� in place for stitching.I prefer KK2000 because it is gone in a few days.

Later this week I will tell you about another method of doing blind appliqu� using water soluble stabilizer.I'd almost forgotten about using cord to turn the edges until I reviewed the AGW yesterday because with Solvy and its clones, I prefer that method.(I'm not affiliated with Sulky, just like to use some of their products)

 Now go sew and come back and tell us how you did.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

  

Related Posts�����

I just added two pictures to my Sew A Long webpage.One is the heart from the Basic Appliqu� technique on page 3 of the AGW.The other is an appliqu�d tulip, that is a bit more difficult.

I used the solvy method of turning the appliqu�:

*       Cut the shapes out of freezer paper, reversing the shapes.

*       Position the pieces on the wrong side of the fabric and press them on.

*       Cut a piece of Solvy leaving ample allowance around the pattern tracing.

*       Pin to the right side of the appliqu� fabric.

*       Stitch around the freezer paper edge using WashAway thread.

*       Trim around the stitched piece, leaving a scant 1/4-inch seam allowance.

*       Cut a slit in the Solvy and turn the pieces inside out.

*       I leave the freezer paper inside until I get the pieces turned and shaped.Then remove the paper.

*       Press lightly on the fabric side with a dry iron(do not press on the Solvy).��

*       Spray lightly with KK2000 adhesive spray and place on background fabric.

Adjust blind hemstitch on your machine to a very short and narrow stitch; (test on practice fabric).Use invisible thread in the needle and stitch around the appliqu�.If you use the regular #20 presser foot, the edge of the appliqu� just comes to the inside edge of the presser foot and you adjust the stitch width so it is just wide enough to catch the edge of the appliqu�.�� When you're done stitching, soak the entire piece in cool to lukewarm water to dissolve the Solvy and Wash away thread.Press lightly on the backside when the piece is almost dry.��

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

For applique with the WSS (Water Soluble Stabilizer)- Consider tracing your pattern pieces with a wash away marker directly on the WSS.This will be your sewing line.Also, try this technique even if you don't have the Wash Away basting thread on hand.I usually just use whatever thread is handy, but would probably go for a lightweight cotton machine embroidery thread as a first choice.If you are using the Wash Away basting thread, consider using it in your bobbin and another thread in the needle.This

Is more economical and reduces the chance of breakage while sewing with the fragile Wash Away basting thread.���

��� --Gina Butler in OKC

The cord method of turning appliqu� means to stitch around the perimeter of the shape with a zigzag stitch wide enough not to catch the Pearle cotton cord.After stitching around the entire shape, put a cardboard Template inside and pull gently on the cords thus pull the edges over the cardboard and press.If you're lucky, the cord won't pull loose and you will get a reasonably even shape.It's been years since I tried the cording method, because since solvy/water soluble stabilizer has been available it is so much easier and for me at least, delivers much better results.

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 3Advanced Guide Workbook Sew A Long

Decorative Stitch Applique

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 5 and 6
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 5

Suggestions:

Make another heart appliqu� like last week's Sew A Long using the technique in the AGW, the washaway stabilizer method I described using freezer paper or Gina Butler's solvy method.

Use any of the decorative stitches built into your machine or one of the optional keys and sew over the edge of the appliqu�.You can place your stitches so part are on the background like the picture on page 6.

Another option is to put multiple rows of stitching inside the design.

Later in the week, I'll post pictures on the Sew A Long page.If anyone has pictures to share, please send them to me as a jpeg and I'll post them too.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

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I've just spent a little time doing Weeks 2 and 3 of the Sew Along. Although I've done a lot of applique over the years, most of it has been satin stitch based on the Week 1 Basic Applique method.Some of the decorative satin stitches in Menu E2 are suited to this method.But back to this week. (3).

I used 4 stitches around the heart: G1/2, D1/4, F2/7, G1/5 just to try a variety using the default settings applicable to an uncoded #20 foot.�� (Numbers based on 96 Update).G1/2 was far and away the best of them.��

From my sampling, I'd do the following when using decorative stitches on a project:

- Consider using slightly more contrast thread with decorative stitches.
- Tear away stabilizer to support decorative stitches
- Smaller stitches easier to control around shapes otherwise use the one pattern feature.

��� -- Janet, Australia

Do an invisible applique` stitch for both techniques (week 2 & 3).�� Running an invisible appliqu� around the design first is best for the Decorative Stitch Appliqu� technique that we did last week.The blind stitch works best for invisible or blind appliqu� as it's called in the AGW.For the decorative stitch appliqu�, the choice of fancy stitch is yours.��� I stitched around inside the appliqu� and added a row of hearts outside on the background fabric, along with embroidery with the built in Amore design.

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 4Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Easy, Easy Applique

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 7
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E page 2

This is the easiest appliqu� of all!Use a double sided fusible like Wonder Under or if you want the best try Steam A Seam.

The sky's the limit of what you can do with fusible appliqu� which is what this technique is all about.

Suggestion:Take a rectangle of wild printed fabric about 8 inches by 10 inches and fuse a layer of Wonder Under to the wrong side.Then draw a design like a jigsaw puzzle on the paper and cut on the lines. For the artistically challenged, you can use an actual jig saw puzzle to trace around the pieces.

Separate the pieces and fuse them to the front of a sweat shirt or T-shirt, then satin stitch around the edges of the pieces.I used metallic thread and a metallica needle.

Just finished publishing pictures of this week's technique showing the fusible puzzle on the front of a sweat shirt on my website.Be sure and check it out, it's on the Sew A Long page.Also put a picture of last week's Decorative Stitch Appliqu� example.

Now go sew and tell us how you like fusible appliqu�.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 5Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Reverse Applique

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 9

Reverse Applique is not a difficult technique, you do need some appliqu� scissors to trim away the top layer of fabric.For a large design I use Ginger duckbill scissors, but for fine appliqu� they are too big and clumsy.

A pair of dull pointed scissors, like the ones I had for trimming baby fingernails work well.The scissors need to be sharp.The trick is to cut through the top layer of fabric and leave the appliqu� layer intact.A sharp pointed scissors is needed for the initial cut into the space.

The Mola's made by the San Blas Islanders are an example of reverse appliqu�, enhanced with positive appliqu� and embroidery.

No doubt you've seen the sweatshirt's with fabric sewn to the wrong side, and the fleece cut away or slashed to show the layer underneath.�� Since Valentine's is coming up, try drawing a heart shape, and draw connecting lines across the heart on the wrong side.Sew around the heart and across the connecting lines, turn over, and trim away about 1.8 inch from the stitch lines inside the heart.Then satin stitch over the cut areas, mitering the corners like we've done in the previous techniques.

Suggestion:Practice on an old sweatshirt or other knit scrap.Be sure to iron on a layer of light weight interfacing to the knit fabric to keep it from stretching.

I hope everyone is ready to move on, next week will be the last appliqu� technique for a while.Be sure and look at the examples on the Sew A Long page of my website, and copy the pictures if you want to save them. I'll be removing some of them this week to make room for the new ones.If you have pictures of your sewn examples please send them to me as jpeg's, and I'll post them.

Now go sew and tell us how you like reverse appliqu�.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

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Placing a layer of wash a way stabilizer on top of the reverse appliqu� helps in not cutting into the appliqu� fabric.Leave the extra applique fabric in place until after the satin stitching is done then cut away the top layer.Dip the area in warm water to dissolve the WAW.�� I find the stabilizer also helps keep the layers from shifting during the initial stitching, especially if you spray them with KK2000 or another brand of temporary fabric adhesive.

The decision to cut away the reverse appliqu� fabric depends on what use you will make of the appliqu�d item.�� For sweatshirts, I serge around the outside and leave borders like you would for cut a way stabilizer on knits.�� On a white table cloth I would cut away the "blue" appliqu� fabric after all the topstitching is complete.�� Suggest you use a wide satin stitch if you plan to cut away the reverse appliqu� fabric so the edges won't pull away.This is similar to the technique you would use for shadow embroidery where you cut away the edges after the shadow layer are sewn to the top layer.

The Mola type of reverse embroidery makes nice double layer napkins.To make them cut two squares 18 inches or whatever size you like sandwich them with a layer of wash a way stabilizer (I use hospital laundry bags as a cheaper substitute for Solvy) where the reverse appliqu� pattern will be.I prefer to spray them with KK2000 to hold them together.�� Spray the paper design and fix to the reverse side, stitch around and remove the paper, and cut away the top layer.Make sure that you don't cut thorough the wash away layer and you'll have no danger of cutting the lower layer.You can draw the design on the cloth if you prefer.Turn and top satin stitch around the stitched lines.Serge a Rolled Hem around the outside and you have a nice reverse appliqu�d napkin.

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 6Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

3 Dimensional Applique

Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook Page 11

This applique technique is a bit different from the techniques that we've learned so far.Instead of fastening the applique pieces down to the base fabric, they are finished around the edges and then applied to the base fabric in layers.It helps in building up the layers to make creases or puckers to give dimension.

When I tried this, I thought -- Why stitch it to the base, why not create a pin?Then the applique wouldn't interfere with pressing, and I might use it on another garment.

I made my petals of 2 layers of Organza, stabilized with 2 layers ofwash-a-way stabilizer.I satin stitched around the shapesthen cut away as close as I could without cutting the stitches.Then assembled the flowers, mine are three layers thick.

Have fun, and let us know how you like this technique.It is the last applique for a while, until we get to the supplements.

How many of you have the bias binder?Shall we skip it or substitute the Kwik-Bind?

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 7Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Bias Binder

Advance Guide Workbook p. 13
Cross Reference:Feetures Unit J pp. 19 - 20

The Bernina Bias Binder foot #85 is designed to attach pre-folded � inch wide single or double fold bias tape.The end result of the binding attached with this presser foot is 1/4 inch wide.The binding is too narrow for most quilts, but works well for baby bibs, potholders, seam finishing, and most of all attaching lace between the fabric and the bias binding.To use the #85 Bias Binder, you need Adapter Shank #75 attached to the machine.

This presser foot is different from the Flat Bias Binder attachment #84 described on page 63 of the AGW that uses flat bias strips, which we will cover later this year.The flat bias binder comes in three sizes; the widest is 26-30 mm.To use the #84 attachment you also need presser foot #94.The Kwik-Bind attachment resembles this attachment and is used for attaching wider binding.The flat bias binder is limited to 1inch bias strips, while the Kwik-Bind attaches 2 1/8 inch wide bias binding.Tips:Use purchased, packaged, pre-folded 1/2 inch bias binding with this presser foot.If you want to make your own bias binding, then use the Flat Bias Binder #84.It is helpful to run a zigzag stitching along the edge of the fabric(s) being bound, particularly if they are more than one layer like a potholder or quilted baby bib.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

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Continuous Bias Strips

1. Take 1/2 yard of fabric.

2. Turn down one corner to create a 45 angle. Press the fold lightly as a guide. Open and cut on the fold.

3. Put rights side together: one triangle's short edges to the fabric strip's short edge and stitch a 1/4" seam. You will now have a parallelogram.Press the seam open. (Fig. 1)

4. For a 1" bias strip do the following: Right sides together, bring the right (shorter point) bottom of parallelogram up to the top right(longer point) of parallelogram. (Fig. 2) Off set the bottom right point 1" in from the top, begin stitching a 1/4" seam. You will begin to form a fabric cylinder as you sew. (Fig. 3)

5. Insert a small rotary cutting mat in tube, and use a ruler as guide 1" from edge of cylinder and cut continuous bias strips with rotary cutter or use your serger (with needle removed) to cut 1" continuous strips.�����

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

 

The AGW suggests loosening a screw to set the position of the bias.I found this well nigh impossible especially as none of the screwdrivers which came with my various machines, fitted the slot while the foot was on the machine. Instead of this I used the needle position to set where the stitching would appear.I used the 5mm Stitch plate and a soft bias binding around a curve.The results were excellent.

The finished width of the binding can be from 5mm - 20mm (1/4" to 3/4").This foot also works very well using the multiple needle positions available with the 1630. Again the results were excellent.��� The stitch quality of the satin stitch (from the entire applique Sew a longs) is remarkably better with the 5mm plate than with the 9mm plate.

��� -- Janet, Australia

 

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 8Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Boucle Stitch

Advanced Guide Workbook pages 15 & 16
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit C page 1 (Darning Foot #9)

Boucle Stitch embroidery is a type of freehand embroidery done with the bobbin tension loosened so the bobbin threads are pulled to the surface.I highly suggest that you keep your original bobbin case set to factory settings and obtain a second bobbin case for adjusting.The older machines used to have black bobbin cases available, but for the 1630, various methods of marking the second bobbin case have been mentioned.I used a Permanent marker to mark mine.Nail polish or anything that might flake off is taboo!

Tips:To do Boucle Stitch embroidery you need a hoop, depending on the size of the embroidery design you choose, this may be the time to use the little darning hoop that came with your machine.

If your design is larger than you will need a wooden hoop.A wooden hoop with a groove cut is handy for placing the work under the presser foot.If your hoop does not have a U shaped groove, you can make one with a Dremel tool, or just remove your presser foot while you place the hoop.

The type of stabilizer you use will depend on the fabric.Suggest you use a square of starched muslin with iron on stabilizer for your trials.Move the hoop, back and forward, do not pivot. Be sure and lower the feed dogs!Run your machine moderately fast, and move the hoop slowly following the pattern.Let the loops of the bobbin thread form a pebbly surface that is close together and fill all the spaces.This technique requires practice.��

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

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Boucle Stitch "CREAM STITCHES"

I promise NOT! to have a comment for each lesson...but this happens to be one of my favs!�� I call them "cream stitches" because the bobbin thread floats to the top of the work.The sample I did is done with silk thread in the bobbin and a machine cotton embroidery thread (lightweight) through the needle.The key is that the bobbin thread be stronger than the top, with of course, a looser tension. I get best results when stitching in a circular motion - so berries lend themselves nicely.When I had the monogram shop we would occasionally see vintage mink stole linings that were marked with the prior owner's name in this way.It was a way to make very tiny, yet raised and detailed monograms.Here is the URL:

http://members.home.com/ginabea/anadarko.jpg

The embroidery is done free--motion stitch painting style, simulating the fabric of the three leaves to the side.The technique for the fabric leaves is called "faced windows".What looks like lame' piping around the leaves is actually a facing that is not turned back completely.The center vein is a heavy metallic yarn (pretty punch).��

��� -- gina Butler in OKC

When doing the boucle lesson -- are the threads supposed to come to the top throughout the whole pattern? I did it in reverse and thought it looked pretty good and the more I read, the more I thought maybe the threads should all come to the top. I read in the accompanying notes to use a bigger needle, to make larger holes for the thread. That started me thinking maybe all the thread should come to the top. I stabilized the fabric and it was difficult to get the first thread up so I brought the first thread up and just sewed it with the good side down. It wasn't quite as pretty as the picture, but not too terrible.

If I did this wrong, I will try again. I used a fine pearl cotton, either an 8 or 12, (darn if I can't remember right now) should I use a different thread. If the loops are to come up, how far is up?

��� -- Maria in Utica NY

Tighten the top (needle) thread and it must be of weaker substance than the bobbin thread.��� My sample on the anadarko vest, http://members.home.com/ginabea/anadarko. JPG was done with a purple Silk thread in the bobbin and a fine 60 weight, blue, in the needle.Seems as though I also used a larger needle (90?) to allow room for the thread to float.I find that I get better results when moving in a circular motion.You might try putting polyester in the bobbin and a fine 60 wt. Cotton through the needle.The bobbin thread MUST overpower the needle thread for the desired effect.��

��� -- gina Butler in OKC

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 9Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Braiding Foot #21

Advanced Guide Workbook pages 17, 18 & 19
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit E pages 7 - 12

This is one of the "funner" presser feet.

At the1630 List dinner at Expo, I showed a vest with many couched threads, cords and yarns decorating it, along with 16 bobbins full of thread that I sewed metallic thread decorative stitching on the panels.

You can use this foot for making thread casings for elastic ribbon.Another use of this presser foot is for French knots, so follow the directions in the Advanced Guide Workbook.��

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

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Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 10Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Bulky Overlock Foot #12

Advanced Guide Workbook page 21
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit C page 33

Here is Week 10 of the Advanced Guide Workbook Sew A Long

Hope everyone enjoyed last weeks technique using the #21 Braiding Foot.

This week is one of my favorite presser feet the #12 Bulky Overlock Foot. This foot should also be called the large piping foot, because of the large cutout on the underside, it is excellent for making and inserting piping.

The #12 foot lacks the hole in front of the needle to and feed ribbon, elastic or threads under the presser foot for couching like the #21 braiding foot, but it can also be used for these tasks because of the large cutout on the underside.��

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

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http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 11Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Button Sew-On Foot (#18 or #7)

Advanced Guide Workbook page 23
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit D pages 19 - 22

For this technique, you can use either the #18 Button Sew On Foot or the #7 Tailor-Tack Foot.�� For high shank buttons, use the tailor tack foot.

The Bernina Advanced Guide Workbook shows four different decorative options for stitching on 4 hole-buttons.

Sewing on buttons is one of the really useful features of our machines.Be sure and try sewing on hooks and eyes, and snaps and rings too.

You're not limited to sewing on buttons for garment closures either; you can use them for decorations too.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

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Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 12Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Charted Needlework

Advanced Guide Workbook page 25
Cross reference: Feetures Unit A

Any kind of charted designs can be used for this technique.You can use a cross-stitch pattern or draw your own.An easy design to begin with is a simple heart.Use the heart from Week 2 when we did Blind Applique.

When using the #2 Bernina Over lock presser foot, you can do charted needlework without using the special charted needlework needles.I've watched people do charted needlework free motion using the needles, and it is an art.What a pleasant surprise to learn that we can do this technique without using the special needles and without risking breaking a needle.

Tips:Make sure you start in the far right position, and be sure the needle position is "far right", after you finish stitching the rows inside the heart shape, stitch a wide raised satin stitch around the outline of the heart.Set the width of the zigzag stitch wide enough to stitch over the pin of the #2 foot and cover the edges of the charted rows.

Related Posts

"When it come to the charted designs, I don't have the vaguest ideaof where to begin!"

Hi,

All you need is a cross stitch design (a *simple* one with not too much detail) or you can design your own with 10/in graph paper.It's easier if you color in your design & also have another one by your side that you can use to follow along with.Once you start stitching it's sometimes hard to figure out exactly where you are, and you might miss squares or stitch where you don't what to.Normally, a curved design will have small steps in it if you follow the squares exactly.

If you're using the chart needles ( #0000 steel knitting needles) there's no way you can use a hoop.I suppose you could using the #2 foot, but I didn't.The wire on your #2 foot becomes your chart needle.

All you do is lay your chart on the fabric and stitch over columns of squares either horizontally or vertically or diagonally which ever works out the easiest, or you like the best.If you're using the needles you leave them all in until the design is done.I have several patterns and a couple of lined clear plastic templatesthat I ordered when I took the class that you can lay over a picture & take to a copy machine to make your pattern, too.The templates only have lines one way in them, no crossing lines like graph paper.

The paper pieces end up staying in your stitching.After the design is done go around the entire design with an unthreaded needle to further perforate the paper so that it's easy to tear away.For the sample I just did I just used regular thread.It's much prettier with rayon.When starting & ending a color you just secure it by stitching in place for a few stitches.

My instructor had a sample of a sweatshirt she did with a large goose, etc.--a *lot* of thread, but very nice.

The technique is in Robbie Fannings reprint of the 1911 Singers Instructions for Art Embroidery.There it's done with a straight stitch machine & done over sewing machine needles.They call it imitation velvet.After it's done you're supposed to cover the back with a "gum solution" then snip all the loops on the front so that it looks like velvet.Something else to try!

;-)

I recently tried a super simple design withmy treadle & believe me, it's much easier with a zigzag machine!

Hope this helps

��� -- Gail R, Wis.

---------------------------------------

There is a booklet on Charted needle work, and it is sold by Sew-Art International, Bountiful, Utah. Their phone # is 1-800-231-2787.They also have the knitting needles in 2 sizes.We have had many classes on this, and it great fun, but beware, it is addictive!Expect to break a few needles until you get the hang of it.It takes some practice.It makes a piece quite heavy.I purchased a panel of a beautiful orange butterfly, and I did the whole butterfly in pink and purple, covering up the orange, over the knitting needles.It turned out nice, soI made a pillow with it for my den.

��� - Refa in New Orleans

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 13Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Chenille Stitch

Advanced Guide Workbook page 27
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit B

This technique uses foot # 7 the Tailor Tack Foot.

Be sure and lower the machine tension, setting between 0 to 3 and turn down the machine speed to half speed.The shorter the stitch, the more dense your chenille will be.

Try drawing a circle, and begin spiraling from the outside to the inside.When the entire circle is filled, remove from the machine and pull the threads to the back and tie off.You can then cut the loops of thread and have fur.

Or sew straight lines and you will get an effect not too different from the charted needlework we did last week with the #2 over lock foot.

If you have the Feetures book, look on page 26 of Unit B at the example of the tree done with the Triple Straight Stitch and a #100 needle.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

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http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

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Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 14Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Circular Embroidery Attachment #83

Advanced Guide Workbook page 29
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit J

This technique uses foot # 83 Circular Embroidery Attachment

This attachment allows you to sew perfect circles.You can make circular ruffles, couch cords, or even do circular patchwork blocks that resemble Orange Peel or Cathedral window patchwork.

At an Heirloom sewing class taught by Mary Lou Nall, I made circular angels.

I stitched 6 rows of the built-in heirloom stitches.Cut away the excess fabric around the outside edge, inserted a small Styrofoam ball in the center, and tied a ribbon around it, glued a pearl halo on top and had the cutest heirloom angel that I could place on an empty Serger cone.

Later today, I'll post a picture on my web site for you to see.

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

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Related Posts

Carol,

What a good idea to put these angels on serger cones! I can see my sewing room all decorated for Christmas next year!

I made these using a layer of white net under the batiste to give the angel's gown a little oomph.

Fun, and quick.

��� - Lois C.

A substitute for the circular attachment is to tape a thumb tack to the table at the distance from the needle that you want to stitch.Your finished circle will be twice the size of the distance.I prefer to tape the tack to the left of the needle rather than to the sewing bed of the machine.

Place your fabric on the tack and stick it down with a rubber pencil eraser. This works especially well for making larger circles than the circular attachment will allow.I've made round placemats this way with matching round napkins.

For making smaller circles the attachment works best because you don't have to keep moving the thumbtack, but if you want to try the circular technique before investing in the attachment, this works.

��� -- Carol in the Redwoods

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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Week 15Advanced Guide Workbook  Sew A Long

Corded Edges

Advanced Guide Workbook page 31
Cross Reference: Feetures Unit B, pages 16 & 17
Feetures Unit D, Non-automatic buttonhole foot

This technique uses foot # 6 the embroidery foot with the small hole in the front and foot # 19, the non-automatic buttonhole foot.

This technique stitches perle cotton under the zigzag stitching line, and adds another layer of perle cord along the edge with the final satin stitching done using the #19 non-automatic buttonhole foot making a nice finished edge.

Hint:Follow the instructions on page 31 for perfect corners.If you aren't satisfied with your corners, try rounding them with a plate.I find it much easier to make rounded corners than try to achieve perfect corners that don't buckle or pucker.

A row of perle cotton around the circle angel makes her skirt stand out.� 

Carol in the Redwoods

(^..^) purrrrr.............

mailto:redwoodenc@earthlink.net

http://home.earthlink.net/~redwoodenc

http://www.onelist.com/community/MavicaDigitalCamera

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BerninaSerger

 

Copyright � 2002-2003 Carol Evans
Contact your local Bernina dealer for the Advanced Guidebook, supplement, or Feetures book.

  

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